This note comes from a little gem in the very south of Mexico called, San Christobal de las Casas. Arrived today, chilling hard.
I last checked in from the middle of Nicaragua.
The following day, riding into Managua, I saw these fools. Rode a nice strech with them. Called themselves professionals in the sence that they didn’t work other then riding bikes. I was glad they didn’t kick that much ass cause i was able to keep pace on lanny just fine. definitly a highlight for the day.
Spandex in Nica
Spent the next night in quite a divey spot toward the border of Honduras. Nice sunset from the roof.
Sun and razor wire
I rose early the next morning and rode the 60 or so miles to the border quite quickly. When i arrived, i went to change a few USD and realised that my passport along with all my money and credit cards was safely hidden under a matress at a divey hotel 60 miles behind me. FUCK, balls. KITT. Keep It Together Taylor. Shit. Oh well. Got onto a bus and watched every mile i had ridden fly by in reverse. Luckily my things of value had not moved and i was quikly on a bus back to where i had come from. The third time i passed things seemed to remain quite the same.
Horses, Man, Vulcano. Thank you Nicaragua
The crossing into Honduras was quite uneventful. I was charged $2 to exit Nica which was a small kick in the dick. The immigration in Honduras was amazing, had never seen anyting quite like it. 1 man at a desk…Bienvenidos Bitches.
Saw this shit in Honduras. Tried to get the passport in there for scale but failed becuase despite his massive size, this cuckaracha was quite nimble. Had an easier time catching this tree on film.
Salvador. I had taken a look at google maps and also consulted my novety cartoon inspired tourist map of the country and planned a route to take me directly to the beach. This route did not account for the terrain involved. Fuck me fantastic, Salvador has some big ass vulcanos. I had chosen a secondary road that had a hill that didn’t quit. Spent everything I had piloting Lanny over this massive peice of dry lava. The hill lay at the end of a very hot 120 mile day. When i summited I thanked the baby Jesus Christ and descended with a big smile. When i arrived at the bottom….mile 130 on the day, the baby Jesus smiled on me again and delivered the most welcome $7 hotel i have ever experienced. Very clean, nice kid running the place, personal garage for lanny, ice cold AC, clean shower, 100 channels of cable with porn! for 7 dollars! Porn. BOOM
Reluctantly left my hotel early and made it to the waves of Salvador just after noon. Was nice to be in a place that i already knew. It has been 5 years i believe. Found the same family run hostal next to a wave that was very familiar to me. All things felt good. Treated myself to the largest ceviche i have ever experienced.
Spent an extra day with a canidian on account of a very acute case of diaria. Bummer.
The stech of coast in central salvador rivals the highway on our own west coast. spectacular.
Saw this dude on one of the many hills. Also ran into a kid who had ridden from Minneapolis…not the guy on the wood skateboard.
this could easily be me and bernie
1st day in Guatemaula, slept at a church. rained a little.
Day 2 in Guatemaula was moderatly unfortunate. I road gingerly for the morning arriving at the bussleing hub of the southern planes of Guatemaula, Escuintla. Escuintla lies at the base of Guate’s mighty and tall vulcano landscape. I had picked up an even more abriviated cartoon depiction of Guatemaula that was mascarading as a map from a man at the border. No help in navigation. I left Esquitla decently confident that i was headed for Antigua, gringo refuge for the county. The man that had directed me had done so with so much confidence and was quite articulate. When the next person i enquired a few miles climbing up and up didn’t understand where exactly i was trying to go it didn’t even phase me. The man in town was so certain and confidence inspiring. That afternoon I climbed for 25 km straight up into the mountains of guatemaula. Up and up and up. I attempted to grab onto slow moving passing trucks. I was gassed. When i arrived at the next town I began to enquire as to my where abouts. After the third interview the insisted i need return to Escuintla to get to Antigua I chose to curse at volume. 25 km of pure climibing. Wrong way. FUUUUCKK! KITT
Collected myself and almost enjoyed the decent back down to the flat lands of Guatemaula. I was after all, a long ass decent.
After I arrived back to Escuintla I had surrendered to the idea that I would just stay there for the night and not think about the climb that must be sitting between me and Antigua. I was talked out of the idea after consulting with a gus sitting on a porch drinking a beer. Our conversation went like this, translated to english for your convenience.
Good afternoon. 1 question.
This is the road to Antigua, correct?
Are there any small towns with hotels between here and Antigua.
Sure. (insert name of town) is no more than 15 km away.
Great. Is it all climbing?
Nope. A small climb then all downhill.
All downhill? Sure?
No misunderstandings here. That dude was pretty sure. Total liar. He must have laughed so hard as I rode out of there as it started to rain and the sun was setting. Climbed for an hour before flagging down a ride to the next town which was in fact just outside of antigue…much more than 15 km. Hilarious joke bro.
Antigua had a small earthquake that morning. Fast asleep…heard about it.
Antigua church at night. Nice colonial town.
Took a few back roads from antigua to lake atitlan, one of my favorite places on earth. Awesome strech. photos will help.
Traquility of rural guatemaula
Bluetruck? One of the few vehicles i encounter on the day
Look close, no bridge. Lanny ate that river up
Almost died on the decent as it poured rain on the steeper than steep hill that runs down from the rim to the vulcanic culdren of a lake. slippery brake made decending dangerous to say the least. i could barely get my freezing hands to sqeeze the brakes to make pressue allowing just enough braking power to slow from slow to slightly slower. If i were to let it coast at all the grade in the decent to send me carrening off the edge of the road. I felt like a truck coming down vail pass.
Stayed in the same place i did before. same bald short man running it. 30 quetsales is around $4 a night…price must have been the same as well. Fucking Love Lago De Atitlan. So gorge. More pics, many come from the following day.
Lanny, boat, vulcano
View from my $4 hotel
Steepest climb of my life. Summited the first portion, willing Lanny through the unreal switchbacks. Ended up walking a fair bit after that. miles of what must have been 13+ % climbing.
Me at the top of and epic battle.
Next night spent outside of Xela Guatemaula. Paid Q35. Might have been overcharged…no shower. first time i have found a room that comes without a shower. Made friends with the man that owned the bike shop there. Sweeter than candy. promised to bring a bike back for him if i ever returned.
Amazing day from that village to mexico. Up and down for the morning and then over 50 miles in a river gorge…all downhill. boom.
Me enjoying a nice ice cream hitching a ride over a few hundred yards of 4X4 only shit.
Mexico came too quickly. Love you Guatemaula.
Failed to change money at the border. 77 km to the next town with an ATM or bank. no taco til then. The baby Jesus again took notice of my tight spot and gifted me 10 pesos on the spot. pretty wild. Then he gifted me and ATM and i was taco rich.
Thank you baby jesus
I’ve eated 22 today and haven’t even though about supper. Loving Mex. Thinking Mexico City and then maybe have to bus it. Another week or so.