Met a few friendly dudes at a hot spring. Hemant and Vikram. Mountain boy and a Delhi boy. An odd couple to say the least. Hemant, a more reserved guy coming from a small village nestled high in the mighty Himalayan mountain range. Small in stature, of Tibetan decent. Vikram – a loud and loveable dude. always smiling. More sizable than hemant with dark indian skin. He thinks in his next life he will be born an american with fare skin and blond hair. Hemant quickly invited me to stay in his home where his well-to-do family took very special care of me. Always a special breakfast and dinner served to us on the floor of the bhuddest decorated, two story home. Hemants precious mother insisted on pouring Ghee all over everthing I ate. Ghee = fat extracted from milk through some long, labor intensive process of sieving and fuck-knows-what. It’s supposed to be a very precious commodity. Admittedly and expectedly the pure fat drizzled over their local Tibetan mountain cusine, tasted like sin on toast. Delicious.
After a few days kickin it with their homeboys in another mountain city Hemant and I said goodbye to Vikram and hitchhiked to the hills for some walking. A couple days hiking, brought us to a hindu mountain temple for the lord shiva. smoked some hash with a friendly man who lives in a tent nearby. Supernice dude. Test my long untested J rolling abilities and i was fairly proud of my work.
Descended in the spectacular Parvati valley. A deep dramatic gorge cut deep into the mountain terrain capped by classic Himalayan snow covered peaks. Villages with foot access only dotted the valley walls where a glacial river tore through the center. A few travelers had described their euphoric feelings as rolled hash from the abundant marijuana plants, sitting smoking and just being in that valley. Fucking cool spot.
A few days later I strapped all belongings to rudy and hit the road back to Delhi to meet up with Austin. Was resolute in taking as much time as need to fully enjoy the ride home. The roads selected cut through valleys even more remote than those I had selected on the journey up to the mountains.
Night one was spent in a very small mountain town. I was a little cheesed that I had to pay $5 for the room but i calmed down. Walked around the one town road. People stared at my cracker ass but fine enough, I was a bit of an anomaly. I sat down in one sweet shop for a treat and some chai. I was quickly invited to the back room where a few cabbies chilled smoking spliffs. One spoke a bit of english and the others less. I enjoyed just hanging and smoking. they offered me some to take with..of corse no charge for their new fare skinned friend. Genuine dudes.
The following morning I was out searching for some superglue to patch my down coat. A shop owner invited me in. Sat me behind the counter on the dim shop. He rolled a few spliffs then gifted me a large chunk of hash. super nice dude. his son was over the fucking moon when i gave him a USD.
That day I crossed Jarorirote Pass. A climb that lasted over 10 miles the last 3 or 4 of which was mud. I spent a few hours standing up on the bike in first gear. I made it was rewarded with a small village at the top. Chai with some dudes. One of the cabbies was up there and i returned the favor and used my supply of hash up. such a beautiful place with genuine people. a good spot to spend an hour or 2 while rudy chilled out.
Later that day I can across 2 guys on a bike. big smiles. We pulled over and one of them rolled a spliffle. We smoked and talked. The one offered me some of his hash but I declined. Extremely nice guys that were really happy to meet me and me likwise. I gave my camera to the one riding in the rear and he took some footage and photos. They later stopped and paid for my dinner. Super nice.
I arrived in Narcanda, a small mountain town at the juction of a few mountain routes. I asked a man that looked like he knew what was up if there were guest houses in town. I instructed me to wait in town for his help. The man arranged for me to stay in a friend of his place. My bed at in the corner of a large empty room shared with another old old man that painted signs. the man explained to me he had been painting signs for over 40 years. His work was meticuous and immaculate. Very high quality gibberish hindi script was tranfered from his delicate brush to the bright sign. I cat and watched with work as the sun rose from behind the mighty snowcapped mountains that were the skyline. He rolled spiffs and gave me and gifted me a large chunk of charas. Amazing.
The man that helped me the day invited me to his mountaineering school for dinner and breakfast. His young indian students poured over me. Part embarrassing but kinda flattering? I spent over a half and hour posing for photos. a few of the girls where gorgeous but alas my time here in India remains celibate.
The next night I stopped at a mororcycle shop in another moutain town. This, Solan, the larges i had been through the entire time. I help the one man working there polishing a motor while his friends sat around, smoked, laughed, drank chai, watched the whiteboy working as they do. I was happy to offer the small supply of charas I had. They inquired as to where I got it stating that it was very high quality. thanks sign man.
One of the dudes went a long way out of his way to find me a room in town. paid 2 bucks for a bed in a truckers dorm. Good shit.
The last day I hustled back to Delhi covering mileage equal to that of the last 3 days combined. Big roads, plains and more of a sense of urgency brought me quickly back to the chaos that is delhi. A few more days here and then Gav and $ attack the north and maybe nepal, tearing ass on out trusty enfieild motor chariots.